Recently, Jeff, Nate and I talked about putting together a weekend riding trip along the Blue Ridge Parkway. As they are much more familiar with the territory, I left it in their capable hands to develop the itinerary. I arrived Thursday evening and my car was loaded with the three of us Friday as we headed to Asheville, NC. Somewhere along the way one of them mentions something about “when we do Mt. Mitchell on Saturday”.
Crap! Cool! Wait … they didn’t tell me that! I shoulda’ brung my 12 x 27! Shut up … you need the work Brown! It promised to be an excellent weekend.
We rolled into Asheville, where I had visited once briefly between stops of catching a stage of the old Tour du Pont and a Pink Floyd concert in Clemson. We found our urban abode, checked in and rolled out for a ride. The plan was to do an out-and-back loop up onto the Parkway and to the Biltmore for (hopefully) a lap around the grounds. A mile or so out of town and it was “up and away”. I haven’t done a lot of riding in the last month and even less climbing, so I knew it could get “interesting”. After about 24-25 miles of riding we arrived at the gate of the Biltmore, but the $47 admission fee was a little steep, so we settled for some espresso at the nearby Bux. Back on our steeds and to the hotel we went. At the end of day one, we had easily done a month’s worth of climbing (for me anyway) already. We cleaned up, headed out for Boddingtons (beer) and a great Italian dinner in downtown Asheville.
Downtown Asheville has a more “Euro” feel to it than Cincinnati for sure … lotsa’ little shops opening onto the topographically-varied streetscape, and some intimate little plazas. One of them hosts a nightly assemblage of street musicians … essentially a “drumming” that has become a tourist stop. I think I heard Jeff refer to Asheville as “the San Francisco of the east” … based on what I experienced I would concur. I was imagining how much Chip would enjoy the strains of the drumming and the scent of patchouli and clove cigarettes filling the air as we hung out for a bit to soak up the nightlife. ;)
The next morning we loaded up the V-Dub and headed for Marion, North Carolina. We had heard that a portion of the Parkway was closed to traffic, so we altered our route to Mt. Mitchell. “Luckily” (sarcasm) it made the climb tougher. Jeff has been racing 3’s for 20+ years and has done the “Assault on Mt. Mitchell” several times, and knew that Marion would be a good launch point. The race is 100+ miles and rolls thru this little burg before the 30-odd mile climb upwards. In short, the route leaves Marion and hits Route 80 after a handful of miles, then onto the Parkway, then Mt. Mitchell Park (Rte. 128) itself.
Route 80 is basically a bunch of switchbacks for about 12 miles. The last four miles leading up to the Blue Ridge Parkway are a steady 8-10 percent grade … probably the hardest stretch of the ride. The 11-mile stretch of the parkway traversed here is mostly uphill. First, a 4 mile section (passing through three tunnels), then a 2-mile descent, followed by a 3-mile climb. The climbs average about 6 percent, amping up to 8 percent in several spots. After turning off the parkway, the first two miles up Route 128 are stiff (8-10 percent). From the park entrance, the road nearly levels out before the final climb to the top. From the parkway to the summit is 4.7 miles.
Jeff later reminded me that we had ridden through a cloud right at the park entrance … my own memory temporarily hazed-over by my aching quads and back.
At the top, chill was setting into my sweat-soaked body and the kindly shopkeeper gave me a thick brown paper bag to put under my wind vest. The temps in Marion were probably in the low to mid 70’s and overcast, while the summit was breezy and maybe 60°. I began my teeth-chattering (and white-knuckled) descent. I’m not a huge fan of descending, but it is a fun drop … I’d be more comfortable if the road was closed!
Epic day.
8,000 vertical feet and 62 total miles later we are back at the WalMart in Marion and heading for Hound Ears. This reclusive hideaway near Boone, North Carolina is the location of the weekend/mountain house of a friend of Jeff’s, where we were to lodge for Saturday evening. Our hosts included the gracious owners, their daughter, another couple and the owner’s 90 year old grandmother who was the life of the party! As the only “Yankee”, I made an effort to be on my best behavior, although our hosts did have some familial ties to Ohio and Cincinnati (whew!).
Our dinner and evening including thick steaks, several bottles of red wine, southern bourbon and cigars out on the secluded deck were the reward for our wrecked legs. My legs have never been as tired after riding as that day. :)
Sunday morning we ventured out from Hound Ear’s, which is conveniently nestled at the bottom of about a 5 mile long climb up to the Parkway, similar in grade to Indian Hill, but mostly switchbacks. It’s a gorgeous area and is as nice a climb as anywhere. Onto the parkway we rolled for our “recovery ride” to Grandfather Mountain. Nate pointed out the engineering feat that was a portion of the Parkway we were on … cantilevered viaducts that “enhance” the notion of being up in the mountains and almost levitating. We rolled out about a total of 20 miles or so, then reversed back, actually riding “through” an organized “Bridge to Bridge” century that was routed along a portion of the Parkway.
Back to Hound Ears for cleanup and heading back to Charlotte … gotta’ stop for food! BARBEQUE! Nate scouted out a “shack” and we scarfed down some local fare whilst watching the “pre-game” of the last game at Yankee Stadium on ESPN. Sad to see the edifice go I suppose … sad that the trip was winding to an end.
Kudos to Jeff and Nate for their planning and camaraderie and to Charles et al in Hounds Ears for the ultimate in Southern hospitality.
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